@font-face{font-family:barlow condensed;src:url(/fonts/barlow-condensed-500.woff2)format("woff2");font-weight:500;font-display:swap}@font-face{font-family:barlow condensed;src:url(/fonts/barlow-condensed-600.woff2)format("woff2");font-weight:600;font-display:swap}@font-face{font-family:barlow condensed;src:url(/fonts/barlow-condensed-700.woff2)format("woff2");font-weight:700;font-display:swap}@font-face{font-family:"source serif 4";src:url(/fonts/source-serif-4-normal.woff2)format("woff2");font-weight:200 900;font-style:normal;font-display:swap}@font-face{font-family:"source serif 4";src:url(/fonts/source-serif-4-italic.woff2)format("woff2");font-weight:200 900;font-style:italic;font-display:swap}:root{--salar:#f5f7f6;--slate:#1e2a2f;--coniston:#2e4b3c;--line:#e3b505;--dust:#6b685f;--asphalt:#3a4448;--rule:#d9dedb;--tint:#e8ecea;--bg:var(--salar);--fg:var(--slate);--accent:var(--coniston);--muted:var(--dust);--focus:var(--coniston);--sign:"Barlow Condensed", "Arial Narrow", sans-serif-condensed, sans-serif;--text:"Source Serif 4", Charter, "Iowan Old Style", Georgia, serif;--step-0:1.1875rem;--step-1:1.583rem;--step-2:2.11rem;--step-3:2.81rem;--step-4:clamp(2.6rem, 6vw, 3.75rem);--step-5:clamp(3.4rem, 11vw, 8.5rem);--measure:38rem;--wide:76rem;--gutter:clamp(1rem, 4vw, 2.5rem)}:root{color-scheme:light}@media(prefers-color-scheme:dark){:root:not([data-theme=light]){--bg:#172024;--fg:#e4e8e5;--accent:#9fc4ad;--muted:#a2a69f;--rule:#2c373b;--tint:#222d31;--asphalt:#2a3337;--focus:var(--line);color-scheme:dark}}:root[data-theme=dark]{--bg:#172024;--fg:#e4e8e5;--accent:#9fc4ad;--muted:#a2a69f;--rule:#2c373b;--tint:#222d31;--asphalt:#2a3337;--focus:var(--line);color-scheme:dark}*,*::before,*::after{box-sizing:border-box}html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}body{margin:0;background:var(--bg);color:var(--fg);font:var(--step-0)/1.65 var(--text);font-optical-sizing:auto;text-rendering:optimizeLegibility}img{max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block}a{color:var(--accent);text-underline-offset:.18em;text-decoration-thickness:1px}a:hover{text-decoration-thickness:2px}:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--focus);outline-offset:3px}h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--sign);font-weight:600;line-height:1.05;letter-spacing:-.005em;margin:0;text-wrap:balance}.skip{position:absolute;left:-999px}.skip:focus{left:1rem;top:1rem;z-index:10;background:var(--bg);padding:.5rem 1rem}.site-head{display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto 1fr auto;align-items:center;gap:.5rem 2rem;padding:1rem var(--gutter);max-width:var(--wide);margin:0 auto}.site-head nav{justify-self:end}@media(max-width:44rem){.site-head{grid-template-columns:1fr auto}.site-head nav{grid-column:1/-1;grid-row:2;justify-self:start}}.theme-switch{display:flex;gap:2px;padding:2px;border:1px solid var(--rule);border-radius:999px}.theme-switch[hidden]{display:none}.theme-switch button{display:grid;place-items:center;width:2rem;height:2rem;border:0;border-radius:50%;background:0 0;color:var(--fg);cursor:pointer}.theme-switch svg{width:1.05rem;height:1.05rem;fill:none;stroke:currentColor;stroke-width:1.8;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round}.theme-switch button:hover{background:var(--tint)}.theme-switch button[aria-pressed=true]{background:var(--fg);color:var(--bg)}.is-home .theme-switch{border-color:rgb(255 255 255/.45)}.is-home .theme-switch button{color:#fff}.is-home .theme-switch button:hover{background:rgb(255 255 255/.15)}.is-home .theme-switch button[aria-pressed=true]{background:#fff;color:var(--slate)}.vh{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden;clip-path:inset(50%);white-space:nowrap}.wordmark{font:700 1.6rem/1 var(--sign);color:var(--fg);text-decoration:none;letter-spacing:.01em}.site-head ul,.site-foot ul{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.25rem 1.25rem}.site-head nav a{font:500 1.2rem/1 var(--sign);color:var(--fg);text-decoration:none;padding:.35rem 0;border-bottom:3px solid transparent}.site-head nav a:hover{border-bottom-color:var(--rule)}.site-head nav a[aria-current=page]{border-bottom-color:var(--line)}.is-home .site-head{position:absolute;inset:0 0 auto;z-index:2}.is-home .site-head a{color:#fff;text-shadow:0 1px 12px rgb(0 0 0/.5)}.site-foot{width:min(var(--wide) - 2 * var(--gutter),100% - 2 * var(--gutter));margin:6rem auto 0;padding:2rem 0 3rem;border-top:1px solid var(--rule);display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem;color:var(--muted);font-size:1rem}.site-foot p{margin:0}.home-hero{position:relative;color:#fff;background:var(--asphalt);height:max(30rem,min(88vh,56vw + 10rem))}.home-hero-slides{position:absolute;inset:0;overflow:hidden}.home-hero-img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;opacity:0;transition:opacity 1.4s ease}.home-hero-img.is-active{opacity:1}.hero-pause{position:absolute;z-index:2;bottom:clamp(1.5rem,5vw,4rem);right:max(var(--gutter),(100% - var(--wide))/2 + var(--gutter));display:grid;place-items:center;width:2.5rem;height:2.5rem;border:1px solid rgb(255 255 255/.5);border-radius:50%;background:rgb(10 16 18/.3);color:#fff;cursor:pointer}.hero-pause[hidden]{display:none}.hero-pause:hover{background:rgb(10 16 18/.55)}.hero-pause svg{width:1.1rem;height:1.1rem;fill:none;stroke:currentColor;stroke-width:2.2;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round}.hero-pause .i-play{display:none;fill:currentColor;stroke-width:1.5}.hero-pause[aria-pressed=true] .i-pause{display:none}.hero-pause[aria-pressed=true] .i-play{display:block}.home-hero::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:40% 0 0;background:linear-gradient(transparent,rgb(10 16 18/.65));pointer-events:none}.home-hero-text{position:absolute;z-index:1;left:0;right:0;bottom:clamp(1.5rem,5vw,4rem);max-width:var(--wide);margin:0 auto;padding:0 var(--gutter)}.home-hero h1{font-size:var(--step-5);font-weight:700;line-height:.9;letter-spacing:-.01em}.home-hero p{font:500 clamp(1.2rem,2.6vw,1.75rem)/1.2 var(--sign);margin:.75rem 0 0;max-width:44ch}.prose.home-intro{max-width:var(--wide);margin-top:4rem}.home-intro>*{max-width:var(--measure)}.section-title{font-size:var(--step-3);margin:0 0 1.5rem}.home-route,.home-more,.topics{max-width:var(--wide);margin:6rem auto 0;padding:0 var(--gutter)}.home-more p{max-width:var(--measure);color:var(--muted)}.route{--road:1.1rem;--x:0.55rem;list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0 0 0 calc(var(--road) + clamp(1.25rem,4vw,3rem));position:relative}.route::before{content:"";position:absolute;top:.6rem;bottom:.6rem;left:0;width:var(--road);background:repeating-linear-gradient(to bottom,var(--line) 0 1.1rem,transparent 1.1rem 2rem)50%/3px 100% no-repeat,var(--asphalt);border-radius:.55rem}.route>li{position:relative;padding:0 0 3.5rem}.route>li::before{content:"";position:absolute;top:.85rem;left:calc(-1 * (var(--road) + clamp(1.25rem,4vw,3rem)) + var(--x) - .45rem);width:.9rem;height:.9rem;border-radius:50%;background:var(--bg);border:3px solid var(--line)}.route-end{padding-bottom:3rem}.route-end:last-child{padding-bottom:0}.route-place{display:block;font:600 var(--step-1)/1.2 var(--sign)}.route-note{color:var(--muted);font-size:1rem}.stop-name{font:600 var(--step-4)/1 var(--sign);color:var(--fg);text-decoration:none}.stop-name:hover{color:var(--accent)}.stop-meta{margin:.35rem 0 .9rem;color:var(--muted);font-size:1rem;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:0 1.25rem}.stop-photos{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,minmax(0,10rem));gap:.4rem}@media(min-width:60rem){.stop{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(16rem,1fr)minmax(0,40rem);column-gap:2rem;align-items:start}.stop-name,.stop-meta{grid-column:1}.stop-photos{grid-column:2;grid-row:1/span 2}}.stop-photos img{aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;background:var(--tint)}.stop-photos a:hover img{opacity:.85}@media(max-width:34rem){.stop-photos{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}.stop-photos a:nth-child(n+3){display:none}}.page-head{max-width:var(--wide);margin:3rem auto 2.5rem;padding:0 var(--gutter)}.page-head h1{font-size:var(--step-4)}.lede{color:var(--muted);max-width:var(--measure);margin:.75rem 0 0}.year-nav{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.5rem 1.25rem;margin-top:1.25rem;font:500 1.35rem/1 var(--sign)}.post-hero{margin:0;background:var(--tint)}.post-hero img{width:100%;max-height:78vh;object-fit:cover}.post-title{max-width:calc(var(--measure) + 2 * var(--gutter));margin:2.5rem auto;padding:0 var(--gutter)}.post-title h1{font-size:var(--step-4)}.post-meta{margin:.9rem 0 0;color:var(--muted);font-size:1rem;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.25rem 1.25rem}.post-tags a{color:inherit}.prose{max-width:calc(var(--measure) + 2 * var(--gutter));margin:0 auto;padding:0 var(--gutter)}.prose>*{margin:0 0 1.1em}.prose h2{font-size:var(--step-2);margin:2.2em 0 .6em;color:var(--accent)}.prose h3{font-size:var(--step-1);margin:1.8em 0 .5em}.prose h4{font:600 1.25rem/1.2 var(--sign);margin:1.6em 0 .4em}.prose ul,.prose ol{padding-left:1.3em}.prose li+li{margin-top:.3em}.prose blockquote{margin-left:0;padding-left:1.2em;border-left:3px solid var(--rule);font-style:italic}.prose table{border-collapse:collapse;width:100%;font-size:1rem;display:block;overflow-x:auto}.prose th,.prose td{border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);padding:.4em .6em;text-align:left;vertical-align:top}.prose hr{border:0;border-top:1px solid var(--rule);margin:2.5em 0}.prose a.photo{display:block;margin:1.6em 0}.prose a.photo img{background:var(--tint)}.prose p>a.photo:only-child{margin:0}.prose em:only-child{color:var(--muted);font-size:1rem}.prose>.wide{width:min(var(--wide),100vw - 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